In this memorable account of 17 trips he made to Hawaii's North Shore starting in 1974, Bruce Jenkins, considered the Kerouac of surf writers, profiles the area's elite, the superstars who live to conquer Hawaii's deadliest waves. Here are the egoists, stylists, gladiators, and purists of the sport, from big-wave greats Darrick Doerner and Mark Foo to bodysurfer Mark Cunningham and bodyboarder Mike Stewart. Features 77 color photos.
About the Author
Bruce Jenkins is an award-winning sports columnist for the San Francisco Chronicle, covering the World Series, Wimbledon, the NBA finals and other major events on the sports calendar, while still making time to travel to the North shore of Hawaii once a year on a surfing trip. He is the author of Goodbye: In Search of Gordon Jenkins.
"Captures the true feelings of the world's best surfers. The best I've ever read."
"An authentic, exciting look at one of the last frontiers of American culture."
-Matt Warshaw, editor, Surfer magazine
"Brings the North Shore to your doorstep - the big names and hte unknowns. This book will keep you burning the midnight oil, and when you're finished, you'll be buying your plane ticket to Hawaii."
- Mike Reilley, Los Angeles Times